All Guides

HOW TO DIAGNOSE A NOZZLE CLOG

All three problems look similar - extruder clicking, weak or no extrusion - but each has a different fix. Diagnose first, fix second.

Quick Steps

When did it start? After filament change = residue clog
During long print = heat creep (check hotend fan)
Manual extrude: thin = partial; nothing = full clog
Pellets near extruder = grinding (not clog)
Heat creep: check fan, then reduce retraction
Confirm fix with small test print
WHY THIS HAPPENS
WHEN THESE FIXES FAIL

WANT SETTINGS TUNED FOR THIS ISSUE?

Generate slicer settings based on your printer, filament, and this exact problem.

Generate Settings

What It Is and Why It Matters

Three different problems produce the same symptoms (extruder clicking, weak or no extrusion): Partial clog: debris partially blocks the nozzle bore. Some plastic still flows but not enough. Full clog: debris fully blocks the nozzle. No plastic flows even when manually pushed. Heat creep: filament softens *above* the melt zone (in the heat break) and jams there. Symptoms identical to a clog but the actual blockage is somewhere different. Fixes are different. Cold-pulling clears partial clogs but does nothing for heat creep. Replacing the nozzle fixes a worn nozzle but not a failed hotend cooling fan. Diagnose first - then you spend 5 minutes fixing instead of 2 hours guessing.

When To Use It / When Not To

Diagnose when: the extruder is clicking or grinding, extrusion is thin, prints are starting fine then degrading, or the nozzle suddenly stopped extruding entirely. Skip diagnosis and replace nozzle when: you've already done multiple cold pulls and the symptoms persist, or you've printed many hours of abrasive filament on a brass nozzle (worn, not clogged).

Step By Step

Run through these checks in order: 1. When did symptoms start? - Right after switching filament: incompatible material residue. Cold-pull at the higher of the two filaments' temperatures. - After leaving printer hot but idle: carbonised debris. Cold-pull at the appropriate temp. - During a long print (first 30 min fine, then degrades): heat creep. Skip to step 4. - Suddenly during a print, no warning: partial clog or extruder grinding. Continue to step 2. 2. Try manual extrusion at print temp. - Heat to print temp. From the LCD, command 50 mm extrusion. - Filament extrudes cleanly: not a clog. Check extruder tension and gear teeth. - Filament extrudes thin: partial clog. Cold pull (see how-to-do-cold-pull). - Filament doesn't extrude at all: continue to step 3. 3. Check the extruder. - Open the extruder case. Inspect the gear teeth - are they covered in plastic dust? Pellet-shaped pieces of filament? That's grinding. - Pellets means the gear is failing to grip the filament - either the filament is too soft (TPU), the tension is wrong, or the gear teeth are worn. Adjust tension or replace gear. - Clean the gear teeth, push filament through manually with the lever held open. If it pushes through to the nozzle but doesn't come out, it's a full clog. - Full clog: cold-pull aggressively. If still blocked after 5 pulls, replace the nozzle. 4. If symptoms develop over the course of a long print: heat creep diagnosis. - Listen to the hotend cooling fan (the small one *above* the heat break, not the part fan). It should be running constantly during printing. - If you don't hear it or it sounds like it's struggling: failed fan. Replace ($3-10). - If the fan is running but you can feel little air movement: dust blocking the heat sink. Clean. - If both fan and airflow are fine: retraction distance too high pulling softened plastic into the cold zone. Reduce retraction (Bowden 2-3 mm, direct 0.5-1 mm). - If you upgraded to all-metal hotend: PLA at >215C is heat-creep-prone on all-metal. Drop to 205C. 5. Confirm the diagnosis with a test print. - Print a small object at default settings. - If the cold pull / fan replacement / retraction adjustment fixed it, you diagnosed correctly. - If symptoms return, escalate: nozzle replacement, hotend disassembly, or hardware-level debugging.

Common Mistakes To Avoid

Assuming every extrusion problem is a clog. Heat creep, extruder grinding, e-step miscalibration, and worn nozzles all look similar. Diagnose first. Replacing the nozzle without trying cold pulls. A new nozzle costs $1-5 but takes 10 minutes to swap and re-calibrate. Cold pulls cost nothing and take 2 minutes - try first. Skipping the hotend fan check on long-print failures. If symptoms scale with print time, it's heat creep until proven otherwise. Don't fix retraction, don't replace nozzle - check the fan. Ignoring extruder grinding. Pellets near the extruder mean the gear is slipping. Cold-pulls won't help; you need to fix the extruder grip first.

Related Guides And Tools

Once diagnosed, jump to the right fix: how-to-do-cold-pull (partial clogs), how-to-change-nozzle (full or worn nozzle), or clogging-heat-creep (heat creep). For broader extrusion troubleshooting, see under-extrusion.

Recommended Settings

Manual Extrude Test50 mm at print temp
Heat Creep IndicatorSymptoms scale with print time
Partial Clog FixCold pull (3-5x)
Full Clog FixCold pull then nozzle replace
Heat Creep FixHotend fan + reduce retraction
Grinding FixAdjust extruder tension or replace gear

Related Guides

How To Do a Cold Pull (Atomic Pull)

A cold pull (or atomic pull) clears debris from inside the nozzle without disassembly. Heat to print temp, drop to a specific lower temp, then yank the filament out hard - the cooled tip drags debris with it.

Read guide

How To Change a 3D Printer Nozzle

Nozzles wear out - especially brass nozzles printing abrasive filaments. Replacing one takes 5 minutes if you do it hot. Doing it cold strips the heat block threads and turns a $5 fix into a $50 hotend replacement.

Read guide

Nozzle Clogging and Heat Creep

Extruder clicking, no plastic coming out, or print quality degrading mid-print? Distinguish between a regular clog and heat creep, then fix the right one.

20–40 minintermediatehigh confidencecloggingheat creep
Read guide

SKIP THE GUESSWORK

FixMyPrint generates exact settings for your specific printer, filament, and slicer - in seconds. No manual tuning required.

Generate My Fix